We woke early on Sunday morning for the 2 hour drive to Gansbaai. We check in and over breakfast, we learn more about the great white shark. Part of our lesson includes a discussion about Shark Alley and the process of attracting sharks to the boat. The ‘leave no trace’ camper was a little wary of the process due to the negative rumors around chumming and changes in the sharks’ behavior, especially after recently finishing Devil’s Teeth, a book about the great whites in the red triangle near San Francisco. Shark Alley is actually the narrow strip of water between two islands XX miles off the South African coast. The sharks visit this area due to the 50,000-70,000 seals on one of the islands. Our boat, Lady T, puts an oily mixture of fish (don’t ask) that creates a type of slick on the surface of the water that draws the sharks close to the boat. There is also the bait, a large fish (with a yellow buoy) on a long length of rope to get the shark right next to the boat. The bait is not intended to feed the shark and we used the same bait the entire day. Lastly, we get instructions about what to do while in the cage. The cage floats on the top of the water and in the 6mm wetsuits, you’re quite buoyant so there are bars to hook your toes on (while keeping them inside the cage) to stay underwater as the sharks pass. Scuba gear is usually skipped because the sound can keep the sharks away so you simply hold your breath and pull yourself underwater.
Anyway, we board the boat and as Lady T is lowered down the ramp. After the two outboard engines’ props are in the water, they start the engines for a test (the captain had made a replacement and wanted to make sure everything was alright). The test failed and the tractor pulled the boat back out of the water. There was 20 minutes of conversation in Afrikans and some checking the engine before it was decided that we were ‘good enough’ for the day. We back down the ramp again and Lance, our shark expert’ gave us instructions about the life jackets. As he’s showing us how to find the whistle on our jacket, he half-jokingly mentions that it’s up to us how much we want to use it as it could perk the sharks’ curiosity. This is when it hit me that we were really in shark territory – wow!
The quality of the ride out to Shark Alley depended on your comfort level of swells. We bobbed the whole way out and while I loved it (giggling about how much our boat changed its perspective to the horizon – way above and then way below), there were a few who were slightly less thrilled. Just as we’re approached the area where we would anchor, we witnessed a full shark breech. This is where the shark comes straight out of the water with his entire body above the surface at once. Sharks very rarely breech in Shark Alley, possibly because it’s somewhat shallow and harder for sharks to get enough speed to be able to clear the water. There are boats chartered on False Bay for people who hope to see shark breeches. I only saw the splash; Jack and the crew were the lucky ones.
We anchored and the oily fix mixture was scooped off the back of our boat and we began the waiting game. Lance pointed out that it doesn’t matter if you see a dozen sharks if you don’t get what they call ‘a good working shark’, one that will go at the bait. We saw a couple sharks near the boat but we waited to put on the wetsuits until Lance felt we had a ‘working shark’. Every time we saw one, we announced it so everyone could see. Seriously, we had no idea what we were in for; we were all getting excited about a shadow in the water.
Once we had a ‘working shark’, we suited up (into the slightly damp and cold wetsuits). Jack, Emma, Patricia, and I went in first. It was AMAZING!!! We climbed in the cage and acclimated. We each practiced finding the toe bar (to avoid sticking any ‘little piggies’ outside our safety zone of the cage. We were too excited to be cold. It surprised me how many fish were in the water. They were nibbling at our bait and I remember thinking that if I was a fish and realized I was nibbling at shark bait in Shark Alley, it’d be about time for me to be migrating. Actually, while in the cage, the scariest part for me wasn’t when the shark was swimming by; it was while waiting for the shark and just as the shark was leaving. It was so eerie, waiting in the water for sharks.
You would bob at the surface until Lance would say, “Down and look left.” From the boat, you have a better perspective and it’s easier to spot the shark; while in the cage you can only see a few meters in any direction. You pull yourself under and see the big guy just casually patrolling the waters, almost casually. I’m getting jumpy in my seat just thinking back on it now.
Twice a shark actually HIT the cage!!! He didn’t go for the cage at all but the bait was right at the edge of the cage. As he swam by, mouth open to display his fabulously numerous teeth thank you, his body thrashed into our cage. After he was gone, we exploded out of the water and relived the moment. We brought an underwater camera and I’ll need to scan and upload a couple of the shots. Both being in the cage and being on the boat while the other group was in the cage were wonderful. It’s unreal.
My attempt to capture the experience does not come anywhere close to serving the day justice. Anyone coming for a visit: be warned that I’m up for another go!
Sharks are very opportunistic and do not waste energy. For example, a shark will sometimes breech from below at an unsuspecting seal. Sharks have better vision at farther distances and due to their missing eyelids, they roll their eyes back just before attacking for protection. If the seal happens to wiggle free or is only slightly wounded and can escape (sounds as far-fetched as the tip to surfers regarding a shark attack, ‘punch them in the nose, but anyway) the shark will many times give up instead of pursuit and relies on the surprise factor instead. Sharks are also more agile after a meal than on a hungry stomach. The meal is turned into a fluid in their stomach and it’s easier for them to change directions quicker. I’ll remember that if I’m ever attacked: I hope it’s a really hungry shark so I have a shot at out-swiming him!
Sunday evening we drove back at sunset along the coast to Cape Town. After a quick dinner and hot showers, we got ready for the Eagle Eye Cherry concert in the city.
I left Cape Town Wednesday night for home and got quite the surprise. Boarding the plane, I felt almost like I was walking the gauntlet. Yes, I am on my way home, but it’s quite the journey. I switched seats to the back of the airplane but to an aisle seat with an empty seat next to it and I was wondering if I’d be able to curl up in the two seats and be able to sleep. Then I hear, “Ms. Pflueger, we have your new seat ready. If you gather your things, I’ll be happy to escort you.” My memory jumped back to my birthday, when I met a British Airways 747 captain, at the winery we visited. He had asked for my flight information to see if he was assigned the flight and teasingly (or so I thought), he had said that if he wasn’t flying, he’d try to get me a better seat. I feel guilty about how nice it was. I got up to brush my teeth post dinner (with a menu that included 6 different wine selections, in addition to the champagne and port options) and the flight attendant asked me if I wanted my bed made up. Are you kidding?!? When I returned, there was my seat, 100% horizontal and with white linens and a fresh pillow. My seat/bed was more comfortable than many beds I’ve slept in and bigger than the ‘twin’ bed from the train car hostel in Mossel Bay! Probably the only time I’ll ever sleep 7 hours on a plane without stirring! I don’t know how I’ll pass that one forward…
Heathrow was a security mess; you have to go through security just to transfer terminals even though you never leave the secure area. I had just enough time to visit the Admiral’s Club and get in a quick shower and tea before heading for my connection to Chicago. I spend a day there with my mom and then head to DC for Chris and Stephanie’s wedding and will be back home in San Francisco on Monday. I head back to South Africa a week from Sunday. Until then, I’m excited to enjoy the long summer days and see everyone before heading back.
My cell will be working again so feel free to give me a shout this week!
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