Back in South Africa – the first week back has flown by. I had an eventful flight back (both good and bad) including a wonderful 9-hour layover in London. I took the tube (minding the gap, of course) to meet Mike, a Londoner who I met on my birthday in Stellenbosch who offered to show me around for the day. We started with coffee at a café where we could sit in the square where all the major film premiers take place and people-watch. From there, we went and found the double decker bus tour; touristy but fun :) Afterwards, we went and found lunch at another cafe before I got back on the tube for the airport. I went to the British Airways lounge for a quick shower and was informed that I was the lucky recipient of an 'involuntary upgrade'. Seriously, I'm getting way spoiled...
Anyway, Amy and Katie (from DC) beat me back here and it’s been great having guests again. They are shark diving today while I work… pictures and stories soon from this past weekend!
Tuesday, July 31, 2007
Sunday, July 29, 2007
Cape Point!
The plan last Sunday was to take another swim with the sharks but the weather wasn't cooperating and all shark diving trips had been cancelled all weekend due to the large swells. The alternative was a trip to Cape Point (and another visit to the penguins to see some more waddling of those cute little buggers). It was another humbling 
day; Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope was the consolation; the drive was just a beautiful as the destinations.We started at Cape Point which is known as the point where the Indian Ocean and the Atlantic Ocean meet. Regardless of the many warning signs, the baboons patrolling the point were able to confiscate their fair share of snacks from unprepared tourists. They are
very bold and we witnessed them grabbing food right from people's hands when they weren't paying attention. We'd heard countless stories about the baboons getting in cars and being a nuisance and we kept our distance.After a scenic lunch overlooking the Indian Ocean, we went to the Cape of Good Hope -
a short drive from Cape Point. Again, the beauty of this place is grounding - I could have sat and watched the waves crashing all day. There was a great rock to stand for pictures and as I was taking a photo of the Chicago crew, I was standing too close to the edge and was put in my place (a wet place) by a wave... sounds like the chocolate milk colored waters of Lake Superior!
Next we went to Boulder's Beach to see the penguins before returning to Cape Town.
There were baby penguins everywhere. Their coloring is lighter in color and more downy than the adults. The gulls were the scavengers and we saThere werew a couple make it away with penguin eggs; the picture of the gull shows one in his mouth... Gulls moved down in my book after witnessing it. 
After hot showers (the wind and water had a chill to the bone effect), we went for dinner in the city.
Monday was supposed to be shark diving for the visitors (while Patricia and I worked) but it was again cancelled due to weather. Luckily, Amy and Katie were able to change their flights to depart a day later (Wednesday morning) and the weather allowed for the shark diving on Tuesday, although they may disagree as to whether or not the swells were really calm enough...
Saturday, July 28, 2007
another trip to stellenbosch
So, I just got home from a fabulous safari in with hundreds of pictures. But first, a little catch up from the visit of Amy and Katie. The week was busy work-wise so the evenings were somewhat low key besides Africa Cafe (Dizzy's for happy hour pizza and beer, La Mez, Bucini's, etc).
Saturday was a different story. Patricia had 3 friends in town so we hired a driver and combi to take the 7 of us wine tasting in Stellenbosch. We visited 3 different wineries with the best being the Waterford Estate (the picture on the left with
lavender greeting guests) where they pair their wines with ... chocolate! Seriously, what could be better for 7 ladies???
The day was rounded out with lunch in Franschhoek at le Quartier Français, which has been ranked among the world’s top 50 restaurants the last 3 years. I had wood roasted red pepper soup to start followed by a butterfish fillet with spiced tomato, leak, and asparagus stir fry - so good! Since, I looked up the list of the top 50 and there’s one more just outside of
Wednesday, July 25, 2007
cafe africa
So I'm about a week behind... but with good reason: it's too nice having guests to spend extra time behind the computer. Sadly, Amy and Katie leave this morning so I'll try to get caught up in the next day or two. For now, this is a peek at one night at a recommended restaurant for visitors. Cafe Africa is a Cape Town restaurant that is a tourist attraction, but for good reason. There is no need to order dinner because the dinner menu is set. After the hand washing ritual at the table (using warm rose
infused water which smelled incredible), they bring out all the different native foods, representing different South African tribes and other African countries. The samplers were reasonable size and then they will bring more of whichever options are your favorite. There were at least a dozen different foods to try and I didn't even make it past the samples before I was full (well just full enough to still have room for the dessert, of course). The food served is also painted on vases on the table to help confused diners to help remind diners what they are eating. It was fabulous and my favorite was a chicken curry - and the pecan dessert.
Dinner is followed by fun dancing as the staff (including a chef) makes their way room to room with drums and singing to accompany the dancing - such a great experience!Friday, July 13, 2007
Sharks and Homebound...
I’ve got 2 hours left of my flight until Chicago and I’m going slightly stir crazy – so I figured I’d share the highlight of last weekend: great white sharks! We booked on Friday and we picked Sunday as the weather was supposed to be not so hot (yes the forecast said, “not so hot”) all weekend, which meant high chances of cancellation. We lucked out and the only rain we saw was Friday evening (I actually got some tennis in before the bbq at Patricia’s).
We woke early on Sunday morning for the 2 hour drive to Gansbaai. We check in and over breakfast, we learn more about the great white shark. Part of our lesson includes a discussion about Shark Alley and the process of attracting sharks to the boat. The ‘leave no trace’ camper was a little wary of the process due to the negative rumors around chumming and changes in the sharks’ behavior, especially after recently finishing Devil’s Teeth, a book about the great whites in the red triangle near San Francisco. Shark Alley is actually the narrow strip of water between two islands XX miles off the South African coast. The sharks visit this area due to the 50,000-70,000 seals on one of the islands. Our boat, Lady T, puts an oily mixture of fish (don’t ask) that creates a type of slick on the surface of the water that draws the sharks close to the boat. There is also the bait, a large fish (with a yellow buoy) on a long length of rope to get the shark right next to the boat. The bait is not intended to feed the shark and we used the same bait the entire day. Lastly, we get instructions about what to do while in the cage. The cage floats on the top of the water and in the 6mm wetsuits, you’re quite buoyant so there are bars to hook your toes on (while keeping them inside the cage) to stay underwater as the sharks pass. Scuba gear is usually skipped because the sound can keep the sharks away so you simply hold your breath and pull yourself underwater.
Anyway, we board the boat and as Lady T is lowered down the ramp. After the two outboard engines’ props are in the water, they start the engines for a test (the captain had made a replacement and wanted to make sure everything was alright). The test failed and the tractor pulled the boat back out of the water. There was 20 minutes of conversation in Afrikans and some checking the engine before it was decided that we were ‘good enough’ for the day. We back down the ramp again and Lance, our shark expert’ gave us instructions about the life jackets. As he’s showing us how to find the whistle on our jacket, he half-jokingly mentions that it’s up to us how much we want to use it as it could perk the sharks’ curiosity. This is when it hit me that we were really in shark territory – wow!
The quality of the ride out to Shark Alley depended on your comfort level of swells. We bobbed the whole way out and while I loved it (giggling about how much our boat changed its perspective to the horizon – way above and then way below), there were a few who were slightly less thrilled. Just as we’re approached the area where we would anchor, we witnessed a full shark breech. This is where the shark comes straight out of the water with his entire body above the surface at once. Sharks very rarely breech in Shark Alley, possibly because it’s somewhat shallow and harder for sharks to get enough speed to be able to clear the water. There are boats chartered on False Bay for people who hope to see shark breeches. I only saw the splash; Jack and the crew were the lucky ones.
We anchored and the oily fix mixture was scooped off the back of our boat and we began the waiting game. Lance pointed out that it doesn’t matter if you see a dozen sharks if you don’t get what they call ‘a good working shark’, one that will go at the bait. We saw a couple sharks near the boat but we waited to put on the wetsuits until Lance felt we had a ‘working shark’. Every time we saw one, we announced it so everyone could see. Seriously, we had no idea what we were in for; we were all getting excited about a shadow in the water.
Once we had a ‘working shark’, we suited up (into the slightly damp and cold wetsuits). Jack, Emma, Patricia, and I went in first. It was AMAZING!!! We climbed in the cage and acclimated. We each practiced finding the toe bar (to avoid sticking any ‘little piggies’ outside our safety zone of the cage. We were too excited to be cold. It surprised me how many fish were in the water. They were nibbling at our bait and I remember thinking that if I was a fish and realized I was nibbling at shark bait in Shark Alley, it’d be about time for me to be migrating. Actually, while in the cage, the scariest part for me wasn’t when the shark was swimming by; it was while waiting for the shark and just as the shark was leaving. It was so eerie, waiting in the water for sharks.
You would bob at the surface until Lance would say, “Down and look left.” From the boat, you have a better perspective and it’s easier to spot the shark; while in the cage you can only see a few meters in any direction. You pull yourself under and see the big guy just casually patrolling the waters, almost casually. I’m getting jumpy in my seat just thinking back on it now.
Twice a shark actually HIT the cage!!! He didn’t go for the cage at all but the bait was right at the edge of the cage. As he swam by, mouth open to display his fabulously numerous teeth thank you, his body thrashed into our cage. After he was gone, we exploded out of the water and relived the moment. We brought an underwater camera and I’ll need to scan and upload a couple of the shots. Both being in the cage and being on the boat while the other group was in the cage were wonderful. It’s unreal.
My attempt to capture the experience does not come anywhere close to serving the day justice. Anyone coming for a visit: be warned that I’m up for another go!
Sharks are very opportunistic and do not waste energy. For example, a shark will sometimes breech from below at an unsuspecting seal. Sharks have better vision at farther distances and due to their missing eyelids, they roll their eyes back just before attacking for protection. If the seal happens to wiggle free or is only slightly wounded and can escape (sounds as far-fetched as the tip to surfers regarding a shark attack, ‘punch them in the nose, but anyway) the shark will many times give up instead of pursuit and relies on the surprise factor instead. Sharks are also more agile after a meal than on a hungry stomach. The meal is turned into a fluid in their stomach and it’s easier for them to change directions quicker. I’ll remember that if I’m ever attacked: I hope it’s a really hungry shark so I have a shot at out-swiming him!
Sunday evening we drove back at sunset along the coast to Cape Town. After a quick dinner and hot showers, we got ready for the Eagle Eye Cherry concert in the city.
I left Cape Town Wednesday night for home and got quite the surprise. Boarding the plane, I felt almost like I was walking the gauntlet. Yes, I am on my way home, but it’s quite the journey. I switched seats to the back of the airplane but to an aisle seat with an empty seat next to it and I was wondering if I’d be able to curl up in the two seats and be able to sleep. Then I hear, “Ms. Pflueger, we have your new seat ready. If you gather your things, I’ll be happy to escort you.” My memory jumped back to my birthday, when I met a British Airways 747 captain, at the winery we visited. He had asked for my flight information to see if he was assigned the flight and teasingly (or so I thought), he had said that if he wasn’t flying, he’d try to get me a better seat. I feel guilty about how nice it was. I got up to brush my teeth post dinner (with a menu that included 6 different wine selections, in addition to the champagne and port options) and the flight attendant asked me if I wanted my bed made up. Are you kidding?!? When I returned, there was my seat, 100% horizontal and with white linens and a fresh pillow. My seat/bed was more comfortable than many beds I’ve slept in and bigger than the ‘twin’ bed from the train car hostel in Mossel Bay! Probably the only time I’ll ever sleep 7 hours on a plane without stirring! I don’t know how I’ll pass that one forward…
Heathrow was a security mess; you have to go through security just to transfer terminals even though you never leave the secure area. I had just enough time to visit the Admiral’s Club and get in a quick shower and tea before heading for my connection to Chicago. I spend a day there with my mom and then head to DC for Chris and Stephanie’s wedding and will be back home in San Francisco on Monday. I head back to South Africa a week from Sunday. Until then, I’m excited to enjoy the long summer days and see everyone before heading back.
My cell will be working again so feel free to give me a shout this week!
We woke early on Sunday morning for the 2 hour drive to Gansbaai. We check in and over breakfast, we learn more about the great white shark. Part of our lesson includes a discussion about Shark Alley and the process of attracting sharks to the boat. The ‘leave no trace’ camper was a little wary of the process due to the negative rumors around chumming and changes in the sharks’ behavior, especially after recently finishing Devil’s Teeth, a book about the great whites in the red triangle near San Francisco. Shark Alley is actually the narrow strip of water between two islands XX miles off the South African coast. The sharks visit this area due to the 50,000-70,000 seals on one of the islands. Our boat, Lady T, puts an oily mixture of fish (don’t ask) that creates a type of slick on the surface of the water that draws the sharks close to the boat. There is also the bait, a large fish (with a yellow buoy) on a long length of rope to get the shark right next to the boat. The bait is not intended to feed the shark and we used the same bait the entire day. Lastly, we get instructions about what to do while in the cage. The cage floats on the top of the water and in the 6mm wetsuits, you’re quite buoyant so there are bars to hook your toes on (while keeping them inside the cage) to stay underwater as the sharks pass. Scuba gear is usually skipped because the sound can keep the sharks away so you simply hold your breath and pull yourself underwater.
Anyway, we board the boat and as Lady T is lowered down the ramp. After the two outboard engines’ props are in the water, they start the engines for a test (the captain had made a replacement and wanted to make sure everything was alright). The test failed and the tractor pulled the boat back out of the water. There was 20 minutes of conversation in Afrikans and some checking the engine before it was decided that we were ‘good enough’ for the day. We back down the ramp again and Lance, our shark expert’ gave us instructions about the life jackets. As he’s showing us how to find the whistle on our jacket, he half-jokingly mentions that it’s up to us how much we want to use it as it could perk the sharks’ curiosity. This is when it hit me that we were really in shark territory – wow!
The quality of the ride out to Shark Alley depended on your comfort level of swells. We bobbed the whole way out and while I loved it (giggling about how much our boat changed its perspective to the horizon – way above and then way below), there were a few who were slightly less thrilled. Just as we’re approached the area where we would anchor, we witnessed a full shark breech. This is where the shark comes straight out of the water with his entire body above the surface at once. Sharks very rarely breech in Shark Alley, possibly because it’s somewhat shallow and harder for sharks to get enough speed to be able to clear the water. There are boats chartered on False Bay for people who hope to see shark breeches. I only saw the splash; Jack and the crew were the lucky ones.
We anchored and the oily fix mixture was scooped off the back of our boat and we began the waiting game. Lance pointed out that it doesn’t matter if you see a dozen sharks if you don’t get what they call ‘a good working shark’, one that will go at the bait. We saw a couple sharks near the boat but we waited to put on the wetsuits until Lance felt we had a ‘working shark’. Every time we saw one, we announced it so everyone could see. Seriously, we had no idea what we were in for; we were all getting excited about a shadow in the water.
Once we had a ‘working shark’, we suited up (into the slightly damp and cold wetsuits). Jack, Emma, Patricia, and I went in first. It was AMAZING!!! We climbed in the cage and acclimated. We each practiced finding the toe bar (to avoid sticking any ‘little piggies’ outside our safety zone of the cage. We were too excited to be cold. It surprised me how many fish were in the water. They were nibbling at our bait and I remember thinking that if I was a fish and realized I was nibbling at shark bait in Shark Alley, it’d be about time for me to be migrating. Actually, while in the cage, the scariest part for me wasn’t when the shark was swimming by; it was while waiting for the shark and just as the shark was leaving. It was so eerie, waiting in the water for sharks.
You would bob at the surface until Lance would say, “Down and look left.” From the boat, you have a better perspective and it’s easier to spot the shark; while in the cage you can only see a few meters in any direction. You pull yourself under and see the big guy just casually patrolling the waters, almost casually. I’m getting jumpy in my seat just thinking back on it now.
Twice a shark actually HIT the cage!!! He didn’t go for the cage at all but the bait was right at the edge of the cage. As he swam by, mouth open to display his fabulously numerous teeth thank you, his body thrashed into our cage. After he was gone, we exploded out of the water and relived the moment. We brought an underwater camera and I’ll need to scan and upload a couple of the shots. Both being in the cage and being on the boat while the other group was in the cage were wonderful. It’s unreal.
My attempt to capture the experience does not come anywhere close to serving the day justice. Anyone coming for a visit: be warned that I’m up for another go!
Sharks are very opportunistic and do not waste energy. For example, a shark will sometimes breech from below at an unsuspecting seal. Sharks have better vision at farther distances and due to their missing eyelids, they roll their eyes back just before attacking for protection. If the seal happens to wiggle free or is only slightly wounded and can escape (sounds as far-fetched as the tip to surfers regarding a shark attack, ‘punch them in the nose, but anyway) the shark will many times give up instead of pursuit and relies on the surprise factor instead. Sharks are also more agile after a meal than on a hungry stomach. The meal is turned into a fluid in their stomach and it’s easier for them to change directions quicker. I’ll remember that if I’m ever attacked: I hope it’s a really hungry shark so I have a shot at out-swiming him!
Sunday evening we drove back at sunset along the coast to Cape Town. After a quick dinner and hot showers, we got ready for the Eagle Eye Cherry concert in the city.
I left Cape Town Wednesday night for home and got quite the surprise. Boarding the plane, I felt almost like I was walking the gauntlet. Yes, I am on my way home, but it’s quite the journey. I switched seats to the back of the airplane but to an aisle seat with an empty seat next to it and I was wondering if I’d be able to curl up in the two seats and be able to sleep. Then I hear, “Ms. Pflueger, we have your new seat ready. If you gather your things, I’ll be happy to escort you.” My memory jumped back to my birthday, when I met a British Airways 747 captain, at the winery we visited. He had asked for my flight information to see if he was assigned the flight and teasingly (or so I thought), he had said that if he wasn’t flying, he’d try to get me a better seat. I feel guilty about how nice it was. I got up to brush my teeth post dinner (with a menu that included 6 different wine selections, in addition to the champagne and port options) and the flight attendant asked me if I wanted my bed made up. Are you kidding?!? When I returned, there was my seat, 100% horizontal and with white linens and a fresh pillow. My seat/bed was more comfortable than many beds I’ve slept in and bigger than the ‘twin’ bed from the train car hostel in Mossel Bay! Probably the only time I’ll ever sleep 7 hours on a plane without stirring! I don’t know how I’ll pass that one forward…
Heathrow was a security mess; you have to go through security just to transfer terminals even though you never leave the secure area. I had just enough time to visit the Admiral’s Club and get in a quick shower and tea before heading for my connection to Chicago. I spend a day there with my mom and then head to DC for Chris and Stephanie’s wedding and will be back home in San Francisco on Monday. I head back to South Africa a week from Sunday. Until then, I’m excited to enjoy the long summer days and see everyone before heading back.
My cell will be working again so feel free to give me a shout this week!
Tuesday, July 10, 2007
BBQ with a view
Last Saturday, we grilled out at Patricia's place on her beautiful patio overlooking the Clifton beaches.Thanks to Jack and Emma for visiting and sharing in and making the adventures! The bar has been set high ;)
Thursday, July 5, 2007
Little late posting but last weekend was...
... another fabulous weekend! Every day, South Africa continues to keep me grounded; the beauty of this country is incredible. Jack, Emma, and I made the most of the past weekend with a trip along the Garden Route through Knysna to… one what is considered one of the top surf locations in the world: Jeffrey’s Bay.
We left Cape Town at sunset on Friday (first picture) and drove to Mosselbaai (aka Mossel Bay) where our ‘Rough Guide’ earned new meaning with its tip regarding accommodations. On the way, we read a good 
review about a place where “guests get their very own private train car” and called ahead for reservations. Along the way, I’m thinking what a great idea – use train cars as guest rooms. We can say that the Rough Guide was a little generous to the entrepreneur who ran a couple sleeping cars to the end of a railroad line - our room was about the size of two dining room tables pushed together. After our jokes finally ran dry, we passed out until we were greeted by the sun rising over Indian Ocean horizon.
Saturday was simply unreal. Some friends from work had recommended Knysna so we consulted our Rough Guide (undaunted confidence) and found a coffee shop where I had the best breakfast of my trip – yogurt, fruit, and muesli and fantastic coffee. After a little shopping, we continued on for our next stop – ELEPHANTS!!
We each got a bucket of fruit and veggies and were able to feed the docile giants. The baby in the pictures was 6 months old and completely fearless. He saw us approaching and left his mom’s side to run and greet us (
or more likely, the white buckets in our hands). The Elephant Park started after rescuing orphaned elephants babies and after serious poaching in the area, these elephants there are the last of the Kynsna elephants. Just after Jack snapped the picture of Emma and I completely focused on feeding the little guy, Mom came and tapped my shoulder with her trunk and scared the living daylights out of me…
We drove on through the Tsitsikamma Mountains to sleepy Jeffrey’s Bay and found a hostel near the beach and short drive from the infamous Super Tubes. J-Bay’s Super Tubes are the venue for Billabong’s annual surf competition (starts next week) as well as the locale for Emma’s surfing debut. Being South Africa’s winter, we rented 4-3 wetsuits which is the same thickness we wear in San Fran, and surfed Sunday and Monday. The best part of J-Bay is how relatively empty the water was for the quality of the waves. Monday morning when we woke up early for a little surf session, we had the waves to ourselves. 
The best ride of the weekend was definitely Jack’s as the sun was setting Sunday evening while Emma and I were watching from the shore; the runner-up was Monday morning when we all somehow found ourselves riding in together - which says a lot! Ending on a solid note, with the 3 of us on the same wave, we said our goodbyes to the water (and the dolphins that had just joined us) and returned to the hostel for hot showers before starting the 8 hour drive back to Cape Town.
Wednesday, July 4, 2007
SA THE 99TH MOST PEACEFUL COUNTRY
Only 3 behind the US...
Business.Africa 31/5/2007
South Africa is the 99th most peaceful country of 121 throughout the world, according to a global peace index compiled by the intelligence unit of the Economist. South Africa was ranked the 14th most peaceful of 21 African states, behind those at the top of the list, Ghana, Madagascar and Botswana, but ahead of Ethiopia, Uganda and Zimbabwe, and bottom placed Sudan, Nigeria and Cote d'Ivoire. The world index was topped by Norway, with Japan in fifth place, Canada eighth, Germany 12th, Italy 33rd, France 34th and the United Kingdom 49th. The United States was ranked the 96th most internally and externally peaceful nation and Russia the 118th. The index was commissioned by Australian IT entrepreneur and philanthropist Steve Killelea, who founded The Charitable Foundation in 2000.
Business.Africa 31/5/2007
South Africa is the 99th most peaceful country of 121 throughout the world, according to a global peace index compiled by the intelligence unit of the Economist. South Africa was ranked the 14th most peaceful of 21 African states, behind those at the top of the list, Ghana, Madagascar and Botswana, but ahead of Ethiopia, Uganda and Zimbabwe, and bottom placed Sudan, Nigeria and Cote d'Ivoire. The world index was topped by Norway, with Japan in fifth place, Canada eighth, Germany 12th, Italy 33rd, France 34th and the United Kingdom 49th. The United States was ranked the 96th most internally and externally peaceful nation and Russia the 118th. The index was commissioned by Australian IT entrepreneur and philanthropist Steve Killelea, who founded The Charitable Foundation in 2000.
Tuesday, July 3, 2007
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